Winter Escape
If we’ve learned one thing about living in Maine, it’s that you have to take advantage of the seasons—do what’s good when it’s good. Whether that means skating when the ice is clear or opting out of a hike when it’s raining sideways… there’s always something worth pursuing for a fun filled day. When Visit Maine approached us about a Winter Escape, we couldn’t contain our excitement to share what it is that we love so much about Maine and all that it has to offer — and how to navigate it safely with Covid-19. The itinerary was packed with epic adventures and delicious meals that took our breath away.
The Mountains
Once our bags were packed with enough layers to survive a winter in the arctic (and after a negative Covid-19 test), we headed out of Portland to the Northwest. The snow coverage grew thicker as did the ice on the lakes we passed on our route. By the time we reached our accommodation for the evening, the Wolf Cove Inn perched above Tripp Pond, snow blanketed the ground and we were eager to kick off our excursion.
Upon arrival, we were greeted with the smell of warm cookies that were bagged alongside the room key as part of their self-check-in process. We found our room down the shoveled path at the Eagle’s Nest Cabin. This charming outbuilding with views of the pond through the white pines was a cozy place to nest for the evening.
With time to spare before our dinner arrangement, we couldn’t resist slipping into some skates and cruising around the wild ice. The surface was a little bumpy, but always a thrill worth taking advantage of when the conditions allow it. The ice was well more than 4 inches thick, which is the recommended minimum. For stretches like we’ve seen this winter where it’s been plenty cold without fresh snow, skating on Maine’s frozen waterways is an exhilarating option.
As dusk was upon us, we drove up the road to Oxbow’s Beer Garden in Oxford, where they’ve constructed A-frames over picnic tables to complement their fireside seating options. We bundled up with wool base layers and blankets and were plenty warm as we enjoyed wood-fired pizza and delicious farmhouse ales.
A warm cabin was waiting for us after dinner, so we headed back to rest up for a big day of adventures ahead. A home-cooked breakfast was included in our stay at the Wolf Cove Inn. We opted for a spinach quiche, fruit, and some hot coffee as we soaked up the beautiful view of frozen Tripp Pond.
After breakfast, we made our way to Hebron where we met Alex and his team of Alaskan Huskies with Ultimate Dog Sledding. Dean, Alex’s personal dog, welcomed us with a wagging tail and gentle lean against the leg. We also got to meet Lucy, a four-month-old puppy, who is too young to be running with the pack but still loves being part of the scene. It wasn’t long before the dogs were harnessed to their positions in front of the sled and it was our time to climb inside it — and with the release of the snow break, we were off!
This was our second time dogsledding in Maine, our first was the cover story in Issue 01: Winter, and it’s always a special experience. To be carried so quickly over snow by a pack of happy dogs is unlike any other sensation. We darted down paths, making turns to the right with a gentle “Gee” call, in awe of the trusting relationship Alex has established with his teams. The two-hour trip was filled with thrill and, upon return, we said our goodbyes to the sweet dogs that carried us over the snow with such grace.
For lunch, we placed an order at Le Mu, a favorite food shanty in Bethel with incredible Laotian-American fare. While we waited for our pick up time, we swung through Cafe DiCocoa for a coffee and eclair. All of their baked goods are to die for, but once I tried this custardy treat last winter, I can’t pass through Bethel without stopping for one. We brought our lunch to Carter’s and fueled up before skiing. Cam devoured the Tempremental Hog, a not-your-average chicken sandwich, while I stuck with the classic, and out of this world, Bahn Mi.
With full bellies, we suited up for some laps at Carter’s Ski Center. Jess Carter, seventh-generation Carter, joined us for the afternoon to ski and share her family’s history with us. We cruised over a corn and potato field, next to the dairy barn, which is owned and operated by her cousin. She spoke to us about how this land has evolved, while also remaining so similar to how it was used by her ancestors. She recently took over the family business and has loved reconnecting with these roots and bringing her own flare too!
Between the dogsled adventure and our ski, we were exhausted from the day's enthralling activities. On the way out of town, we stopped at True North Adventureware to pick up some hand warmers for next time. They have lots of great equipment for sale and rentals if you’re in the area looking for gear. We traded the mountains for the coast and headed south to continue our winter escape.
mountains recap
Stayed at the Wolf Cove Inn.
Dinner at Oxbow Beer Garden.
Dog Sledded with Ultimate Dog Sledding.
Lunch at Le Mu.
The Coast
It was dark by the time we arrived at our room in the Boathouse Waterfront Hotel in Kennebunkport, but looking out our window we could see the lights of the boats docked on the Kennebunk River below, giving us nautical vibes that matched the aesthetic of the room. We were welcomed with an incredible cheese board featuring charcuterie and pickled vegetables to hold us over until our dinner reservation.
When it was time, we waltzed downstairs, through the lobby, and onto the deck where we found our private heated gondola we were to dine in — complete with blankets and pillows galore. The Boathouse has established a seamless contactless system with an online menu, only opening the gondola doors to let the food in. It felt impossible to pick which dish to go with as everything looked enticing, but we eventually narrowed it down to some buffalo shrimp and bao buns to start, followed by a phenomenal fresh tuna poke bowl for myself and short rib ramen for Cam. We brought dessert—a brownie sundae—upstairs to devour in our room. We will certainly be back to the Boathouse to continue tasting our way through their menu. As we drifted to sleep, the rain started to trickle down as forecasted, but when we woke up, we were not prepared for the torrential downpour and gale-force winds that pelted the glass.
We proceeded with the morning as planned, grabbing breakfast sandwiches from the legendary Palace Diner and coffee from Time and Tide, which is roasted in the Pepperell Mill across the street. From there, we were hoping to take a walk around the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge, but when we got out of the car by the ocean, we were drenched within minutes from the sheets of rain blowing sideways in the wind. So instead, we opted for a drive along the shores, admiring the crashing waves and the entrancing beauty of a raging ocean.
We wandered back into Biddeford to peruse some shops, stopping into Elements first to warm up with a cup of tea. We love the vibe Elements has created with walls of books, draft beer, and espresso — and are grateful for their support in stocking Maine the Way over the years. Down the street, we popped into Hills and Trails, a new shop featuring originally designed lifestyle ware and thoughtfully curated souvenirs. Our final stop in Biddeford was to Round Turn Distilling, where we picked up to go cocktails to enjoy in our hotel later. Co-founder Kristina mixed up Negronis, sharing their inception and impetus for their gin focused distillery, even taking us behind the scenes for a look at their still and their process, which is done slowly at a lower heat to allow them to precisely pick the flavor notes they want to include.
Coast Recap
Dinner and Stay at The Boathouse.
Breakfast from Palace Diner.
Coffee from Time & Tide.
Attempted hike to Timber Island.
The City
From Biddeford, we zoomed up the highway to our final destination, our home city of Portland! There are lots of great outdoor dining options in town and, since the weather had died down, we were eager to fuel up and relax. We pulled into Austin St. Brewery on Fox St. where you can reliably find a pop-up food option. Smokey and Brines was stationed at the brewery for the day, so we got a spread of BBQ fixings and tasty sauces.
After lunch, we checked into our room at the Blind Tiger with a beautiful view overlooking the Casco Bay Bridge. We enjoyed some downtime before dinner and savored our Round Turn cocktails in the room! Our reservation for the evening was in one of Chaval’s greenhouses. Their French & Spanish influenced menu has always impressed us, and this meal was no exception, from warm olives to 24 month dry-cured Jamon Iberico and all the seafood (mackerel) and vegetables (cauliflower) in between. Of course, we saved room for dessert — a special of chocolate cake with pepper ice cream.
Our final day of the winter escape started with brunch at Little Giant. We live close by in the West End so were thrilled to hear about their new heated patio and brunch offerings. In a familiar struggle over what to order, we noticed the chef’s tasting option, which includes four pulsed out courses of deliciousness. For photography purposes, we had the food all come at once, which was an insatiable feast for the eyes. We started with broiled grapefruit, a Tortilla Española, cheesy polenta, and Pan con Tomate. Cam’s Shakshuka was savory as was my egg and lobster sandwich, but the star of the show was the fried Spanish toast — an unforgettable custardy bread brûléed and served with salted honey and whipped cream.
In an effort to walk off brunch, we headed to the Old Port to visit galleries, vistas, and some of our favorite shops. We always stop into Portland Trading Co. if we need a gift, inspiration, or even to chat with Kazeem. When in the Old Port, it’s also fun to walk down a pier and see the working waterfront—and the loafing seagulls. Fitz and Bennett is another great store featuring local artists and home goods. We worked our way over to Washington Ave and popped into Terlingua for dinner. Their new location has converted the back yard into charming fish shacks, fire pits, and heated picnic tables to kick back over yummy drinks and food. A pair of Palomas were a delicious celebratory cheers to cap off our amazing partnership and their menu of smoked meats, ceviche, and salsas hit every taste bud on the tongue. We capped the adventure with a final toast of mezcal and then headed home to the other side of Portland.
We couldn’t be more grateful to partner with Visit Maine and share this winter escape with you. We hope it inspired you to see new sights in Maine or revisit the places you love safely. We love soaking up all that Maine has to offer, conversing with those that are bringing their passions to life—whether distilling, designing, or dogsledding. There are so many great characters in this state that create the culture we love so much. Leave us a comment if this writeup inspires any adventures of your own — or if you have suggestions for places to visit next time!
City Recap
Brunch at Little Giant.
Shopping at Portland Trading Co.
As well as Fitz and Bennett.
Final dinner from Terlingua.