Daytrip to Damariscove & Damariscotta
If there’s one takeaway from having grown up on the ocean it’s that you must respect her, for she’s a beast. She can go from glassy reflections to storming seas in a matter of minutes, from the clearest horizons to a foggy abyss, and many other shifts that make you surrender to the elements she brings. That has always been part of the fun for me. It feels like the windows for ambitious adventures are sparse, and jockeying for a big day on the big blue is part of her courtship. For this Daytrip, we got lucky and we were smart. We waited for a window where the conditions looked manageable and we were rewarded.
Damariscove Island has been on my radar for years now—mostly from my family of sailors that has found stillness and protection on the couple of moorings that make this island on the edge of the Atlantic a haven for bigger hulls. While it’s less popular to visit by kayak, we figured if we hugged the shores of Ram Island and Fisherman Island along the way, we would at least have protection from the wind if we stayed to the leeward side. So, in search of a new peninsula to feature in our Daytrip series, we set off to Boothbay Harbor, with hopes of extending that fold of land all the way out to Damariscove Island.
From Portland, we picked up breakfast from Rose Foods — coffee & bagels. Cam added lox, something I wish I had an appetite for. After a bit of a boat shuffle, we headed towards Route 1 with the windows down and singalongs streaming through the speakers. In the summer, I always tend to prefer the windows down — not only because my AC needs a recharge— even if it means repeating the punchline of a story. It feels fun and flirty, a childhood thrill I hope to never tire of. Traffic began to clog as we approached Wiscasset, so we pulled off to pick up sandwiches from Treat’s. Their pastry case was hard to resist, so with a hearty lunch bagged, we headed for the put-in. We love supporting spots throughout the state that support and sell our publication — thank you!
We pulled up to Ocean Point and conveniently found a parking spot right next to the boat launch. The tide was halfway out, so we brought our boats down, loaded them up, and scooted into the clearest ocean water. Conditions couldn’t have been better as we rode the outgoing tide with the wind at our backs. Crossing Fisherman Island Passage was a little treacherous as mega yachts made their way into Boothbay Harbor, among many lobster boats and sailboats too. With our course set to Ram Island Lighthouse, we dug in our paddles and powered across their wake. The western shore of Fisherman’s Island gave glimpses of beautiful historic homes seemingly well-loved for generations. From there, we crossed over to the eastern side of Damariscove, where seabird songs made their presence known. The trip down was just under 6 miles as we rounded the southern tip and into the protected harbor of Damaraiscove.
The former US Coast Guard Light Station greets guests at the mouth of the cove, which is now a private residence auctioned off by the government in the 1980s. The two young men that won the auction have kept it in their family, with one enjoying July and the other with August on the island. We paddled to the sandy beach at the far end of the cove and pulled our boats up. Picnic in hand, our first stop was to the informational museum on the island, which showcased the human history and natural history of the island. As we made our way to the stone pier, we were greeted by Aiko, the caretaker on the island for the summer with her partner Scott. She shared some history and tips for things to see while on the island, and pointed us to Flat Ledge for lunch, a favorite picnic spot for islanders for more than a century.
Our brown bag lunch included a sandwich each, a bag of chips, and a fresh raspberry almond muffin. We sat on the ledge looking west towards the Cuckolds and all the fishing boats doing circles in search of stripers in-between. Reflecting on our conversation with Aiko, we marveled at the simplicity of island life. The Boothbay Region Land Trust, which protects this island and organizes the summer care, prefers that they don’t have access to a boat so they are always on the island available to greet guests and answer questions — just like they so warmly did for us. Resupplies are brought by boat from Southport as needed. While maybe a difficult rhythm to figure out initially, it sure sounded dreamy to live simply.
After heating up like lizards on the rocks, we opted for a quick dip in the harbor. We jumped off the docks into what I was expecting to be a frigid ocean, but were delighted albeit concerned that the temperatures were more manageable, so we swam around for a bit before hopping in our kayaks. Since we paddled along the eastern shore of the island on the way down, we were curious what the west coast was like for our return trip.
Much to our delight, both the winds and tides had shifted, so we again had a tailwind as we rode the incoming tide back to the mainland. While we enjoyed clear skies just offshore, we were staring dark clouds in the face as we paddled the six miles back. The surf was sporty and kept us on our toes as we attempted to surf the bumps and expedite the trip. Sunshine still reigned until we reached Ram Island light, when the storm clouds took over, looking ominously wet. We quickly made it across the passage and pulled our boats up the beach just as it started to sprinkle. We grabbed our belongings and darted for the car, where we waited out the passing storm. Within 20 minutes, the sun found its way around the clouds again, casting a beautiful rainbow against the stormy seas.
Due to our dilly-dallying on the island and spontaneous rainstorm, we made a few shifts to our afternoon itinerary and headed straight to the Shuck Station. We started with a dozen oysters, fresh from the adjacent Damariscotta River. I tried their oyster po-boy while Cam enjoyed the blackened fish tacos. The only thing missing was some live music, which got rained out. If you’re in the area looking for a fun spot, be sure to add this place to the list! Before we made the last leg home, we stopped for a cone of coffee oreo at Round Top, a favorite from the summers I used to work in the area.
We never seem to have an issue filling our days around here. While the 12-mile paddle out to Damariscove and back is not for everybody, there are plenty of shorter and more protected sea kayak trips worth exploring in the area. The Maine Island Trail Association Guidebook and App are fantastic resources for planning a trip that suits your skill level. Here’s to summer in Maine!